As it was a last minute decision to head for Spain, instead of Germany, our plan was to take the 33 hour ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao, head to Granada to visit the Alhambra, then spend two weeks in the south looking at locations for a potential Winter holiday next year, slowly making our way back to Bilbao over three weeks via the east coast, the Pyrenees and eventually Pamplona. We adapted our plans as we went and followed the sun in our trusty motorhome Cezar.
Arriving in the misty morning, Bilbao and the Basque Country surprised us with its verdant hills, forests of deep green and surprisingly lower temperatures. Heading west, our first stop was to fill up with diesel and I was pleased to find the tradition of the petrol pump attendant still in place. I searched for the correct Spanish phrase for Fill it up please…” lleno por favor “ and was pleased that the attendant didn’t try to speak back to me in English, but allowed me the opportunity to listen carefully and attempt to communicate with him in his language. Forgetting of course that Basque, not Spanish is the main language used here!
We drove past Castro Urdiales and Laredo, where once my Mother drove in the early 1950s on her tour of Spain with her godparents. She described the beautiful beaches and just one hotel, these now seemed bustling holiday resorts from the dual carriageway . Once we got to Santander we headed south, stopped just off the motorway for a food shop, then on to our first campsite at Tordesillas, near Valladolid.
Tordesillas medieval bridge over the Douro river, just a few minutes walk from our first Spanish campsite, Camping El Astral.
A pleasant campsite with a decent bar / restaurant, we met several Brits heading back to the ferry in Bilbao. We had booked it through the Caravan and Motorhome Club website before leaving, as a convenient stop over en route to Granada.
We had searched in vain for a suitable campsite for the next evening to break up this long drive. Having downloaded a variety of apps to find park ups, I had a short list of places that offered a place to rest. Our driver Señor seemed reluctant, but was open to t getting out of his comfort zone. Our first choice was the car park for camping car at the foot of a tourist attraction. El Castillo de Consuegra and the remains of sixteen windmills on a ridge across the plains. As we arrived we were heartened to see a few other motorhomes already there, so we parked up and ate lunch!
Our first night at a free park up in the camping car park next to this castle in Consuegra and its enigmatic windmills
Such a barren landscape for miles around
Hours of driving through what we soon discover is a feature of touring Spain, big landscapes. Miles and miles of the same arid lands, we excitedly spot olive groves, except these groves expand until we are completely surrounded by what the guide book informs us to be over 70 million in that area.
Continuing south through the dry Jaén olive oil country over bridges over dried up river beds , we are not surprised to note the temperature rises sharply through the low 30s and suddenly as we arrive on the outskirts of the busy city of Granada, the temperature reaches 35.5 degrees and the sat nav overheats and turns off. Moments of panic ensue as we negotiate the correct motorway exit, but thanks to smart phones and Google maps we are quickly on the right road to our next campsite just outside Granada in the Sierra Nevada.
Arriving at Camping Las Lomas on the Thursday afternoon before a major Spanish Bank Holiday weekend, we are delighted to find stunning views of the sierra, the lake and even sightings of snow, all this and 35 degrees in April.
The Spanish News has an article about the hottest April ever across the country and we consider our travel plans to avoid the scorching heat of the city trip we had planned. We can see how the water level in the lake has reduced and wonder about the effects of climate change on a country that is not so far from home. The campsite has a mix of Spanish, Dutch, British, Swiss and Germans, a variety of caravans, motorhome, campervan, small cars, tents and awnings etc and there is a convivial atmosphere in general. Two British middle aged couples travelling together in large motorhomes occupy the pitches next to us and as soon as they arrive they abandon their motorhomes to the bar, and settle in at the restaurant overlooking the lake. In a scene reminiscent of Shirley Valentine (when a rather boring couple insists on boring Shirley Valentine with their closed views on the Greeks “ it’s not Spain”), they strike up a conversation with a third British couple in a smaller and older campervan and invite them to join them for dinner. As we tuck in to our ridiculously huge portions of meat and fish, we are amused to listen to the one upmanship of the tales of their travels abroad and places on their bucket list. The third couple are from The North and in my opinion win the competition, especially when the quiet and unassuming wife tells them shocking stories about her time as a private investigator.
A meal with a view!
I think on reflection we were really spoiled by this campsite. It really had everything you needed, and although the facilities were a little dated compared to some sites, it was always spotlessly clean, with friendly staff and a relaxing atmosphere. The swimming pool, whilst very fresh and cold, was still a welcome relief from unusually hot May bank holiday.
We had chosen this campsite as it is open year round, and will definitely put it on our list of one to return to in the cooler months so we can visit Granada and the Alhambra, which we were unable to visit due to the heat and crowds.